In 1850, Oliver Perry Graham built a log cabin on the east shore of Sturgeon
Bay, the wilderness of northeastern Wisconsin. The rugged landscape –
dense forests, treacherous waters, rocky fields – was challenging,
as well as intimidating. But the early settlers were hearty immigrants
who recognized opportunity.
Shortly after his arrival, Graham was joined by settlers from countries
all over Europe and Scandinavia – farmers, fishermen, and lumbermen
who would clear the land, build homes, and establish businesses. Within
seven years of Graham’s arrival, Sturgeon Bay was designated the
county seat.Nearly 160 years later, Cedar Street, renamed Third Avenue
during World War II, continues to operate much in the same manner it did
in its earliest history. Although the thoroughfare’s original buildings
and businesses have been transformed from drug stores, boarding houses,
dry goods stores, and saloons to businesses catering to a growing number
of tourists, the character and history of Third Avenue is honored and
preserved.
The foundation of Sturgeon Bay was laid. In 1862, city records list 222
residents and 30 buildings, including one tavern and a newspaper. The
city was officially organized in 1883. Eleven years later, the last of
the adjoining villages along the bay were annexed to greater Sturgeon
Bay, creating one city split in half by the bay.
At the center of the burgeoning community, Cedar Street, running north
to south, evolved as the heart of the business district. Early photographs
of the street reveal a typical mid-1800s American town. Dirt streets,
plank sidewalks, simple store façades, and white picket fences
dominate; slightly blurred horse-drawn wagons lumber down the broad road,
bearded drivers at the reins.
The definition of Sturgeon Bay’s street grid and downtown development
is the result of happenstance. According to Sally Treichel, Archives Coordinator
for the Door County Historical Society, “The downtown area just
‘happened.’ There wasn’t a real plan. A house was built,
two lots over a business operated.”
Images of America, Sturgeon Bay, a pictorial history of the city compiled
by Ann Jinkins and Maggie Weir for the Door County Historical Museum,
features a majority of Third Avenue’s original buildings. Taken
together, the photographs provide an excellent visual of the early development
of the city.
“There were many open spaces in the street. You have to remember,
in the early days, the area of Third Avenue was completely wooded. The
streets were cut through the forest and were stump-studded,” Sally
related. “With only one or two exceptions, buildings were no taller
than two stories.”
The ebb and flow of the city’s development reflected the economics
of the country, the archivist continued. “The ‘panic of 1857’
saw lumber prices plummet; there was modest growth between 1865 and 1870,
followed by a depression in 1873. Raging fires routinely devastated the
community, destroying everything in their path.”
“Intensive Architecture/Historical Survey and Recommendations for
Downtown Revitalization & Historical Preservation for Sturgeon Bay,
Wisconsin,” (February, 1983), provides an in-depth architectural
description of Third Avenue. “The character of the district’s
buildings is more ingenious than distinguished…taken together they
illustrate the parade of styles common to 1880 – 1910 in Wisconsin.
“Detailing and craftsmanship are now only evident above eye level.
Styles include vernacular or common builders, i.e. plain brick walls,
unadorned windows, simple buildings that reflected space, shelter and
income. There are hints of Italianate, but most often the architecture
combined several styles.”
The 20th Century proved a turning point in the appearance of Third Avenue.
As frequent fires destroyed wood-constructed buildings up and down entire
blocks, their replacements were built of brick and locally-quarried stone.
Many buildings housed multiple businesses. Henry Hahn established a furniture
store and undertaking business at 27 – 33 North Third Avenue. Built
in 1904, he and his wife Emily lived upstairs. Of course, the two enterprises
were related; crafting furniture was not far afield from building a casket.
“This was fairly typical of the time,” explained Sally. “Businesses
moved from building to building, making an economical use of space.”
The impressive Hotel Waldo, opened in 1901, was a Third Avenue landmark
for many years. The hotel also housed a drug store complete with soda
fountain. Hotels most often also featured an onsite restaurant.
Early 1900s photographs of Third Avenue are nostalgic images of an era
long past. Women wearing ankle-length skirts and stylish hats walk broad
sidewalks protected by striped awnings. Bartenders in white aprons and
their customers, some in wide-brimmed cowboy hats, stand in front of the
David Houle Saloon, a favorite watering hole. Advertising “Buffet
and Billiards, Imported and Domestic Liquors, Cigars and Tobacco”
in 1916, the site currently houses Brick Alley.
An interesting footnote to the history of Third Avenue is the web of underground
tunnels. “Yes, there were tunnels,” Sally affirmed. “They
served the stores with steam from the power plant. You could access the
tunnels through the business’s basement.”
“The tunnels run the length of Third Avenue,” confirmed Marty
Olejniczak, Community Development Director. “Branches from the main
steam tunnel serviced the businesses on either side of the street. The
tunnels are beginning to decay and will be removed next spring with a
complete renovation of Third Avenue.”
The site of Sally’s family business began with Hay Hardware, replaced
by Woolworth’s. “My family opened the business in 1953 and
kept it until about 1975. Now Dr. Eric Paulsen is located in that space,”
she said.
As more and more “city folk” traveled north in search of a
retreat from city life, trains carrying the new tourists rumbled across
the toll bridge that spanned Sturgeon Bay. The Ahnapee and Western Railway,
which continued to operate for 74 years, deposited passengers at the depot
on Third Avenue.
The bustle of increasing traffic in the downtown area continually spawned
new businesses. Shimel the Grocer was located at Third Avenue and Kentucky
Street; Dudley Lawrence operated a meat market on Third Avenue. At one
point, four pharmacies and several dry goods stores lined the avenue.
The oldest continuously operating family-owned Sturgeon Bay business,
operating since 1910, is Draeb Jewelers, located at 50 North Third Avenue.
Established as a jeweler in 1904, George A. Draeb’s grandson George
and great-grandson Bill carry on the family tradition.
The 1935 fire that claimed most of the downtown district also claimed
Draeb’s. But the store was quickly rebuilt; it was at that time
the distinctive black glass front was installed. “There have been
no serious changes in all those years,” smiled George. Well, maybe
just one.
A “street clock” stood in front of Draeb’s until the
1920s. Historically, street clocks were erected in front of jewelry stores
for advertising purposes. On July 6, 2001 a replacement clock was dedicated
to the memory of J. William Draeb, George’s father.
Some of the turn-of-the-century businesses continue to operate in a related
modern “fashion.” Located at the corner of Third Avenue and
Louisiana Street, the A.W. Lawrence and Company, built in 1880, was the
county’s first modern store. Destroyed by fire in 1935, Lawrence’s
son-in-law L.M. Washburn rebuilt the store, selling it to H.C. Prange
Company two years later. The Prange store was eventually purchased by
Younkers, a department store chain, and operates today in the same location.
Moving forward into the 21st Century, Sturgeon Bay is facing a bright
future, according to Marty. “We have a nice advantage over Northern
Door in that the city is supported by both the locals and visitors.”
Sturgeon Bay Visitor & Convention Bureau Executive Director Todd Trimberger
agrees. “Sturgeon Bay never closes; we’re open year round.
This is an exciting time for the city; there’s a real synergy going
on. We want to build on that and ratchet it up a notch.”
An important factor in the future of Sturgeon Bay is the construction
of a new bridge now under construction and due to open in September 2008.
“The new bridge will encourage people to visit downtown and stay
downtown. We expect the new bridge will extend business two blocks down
Third Avenue to the south,” Marty said.
The traffic flow to downtown will also be assisted by the new bridge,
temporarily titled the Maple to Oregon Bridge. “The new bridge is
higher over the water with fewer bridge openings,” he explained.
“Eighty percent of the pleasure craft will clear the bridge without
necessitating an opening.”
Following the completion of the new bridge, the Michigan Street Bridge,
opened on July 4, 1931, will be closed for improvements estimated to continue
for eight months. In recognition of its unique Scherzer-type, double-leaf,
rolling-lift bascule, the bridge was named to the National Historical
Register in 2006.
“Maintaining the historical integrity of the city, our connection
with the water, and our pedestrian-friendly community are the priorities,”
Marty emphasized. “When development is being planned, we have to
make sure everything is done to code, and that our planning implements
a vision for the future. Finally, the right match between the developer
and the land is essential.”
In keeping with the emphasis on history, Sturgeon Bay is completing a
project that will include the installation of 20 plaques on significant
buildings throughout the city. The marble plaques will include the name
of the building, an etching of the structure, and a brief history. A self-guided
walking tour will be available to visitors.
Anchoring the north end of Third Avenue, two buildings have been rescued
from the ravishes of time. The Donna Theater opened on November 25, 1950.
Typical of similar structures of its time, the Donna was a Saturday night
destination.
But as downtown theaters succumb to the success of the modern cinemas,
the lights dimmed on the Donna in 1999. Fortunately, the old theater was
granted a new life when Third Avenue Playhouse opened the doors just one
year later as a stage theater. Today, the non-profit theater group hosts
a variety of performances 12 months a year.
Anchoring the block’s northernmost corner is an example of the dedication
of business owners to preserving the spirit of old Sturgeon Bay. The former
1970s movie theater on the corner of Jefferson Street and Third Avenue
was recently reconstructed to complement the oldest buildings of the early
20th Century – On Deck Clothing Company opened in 2006.
Although the Door County Advocate was not originally located on Third
Avenue, the newspaper is significant in that it is the oldest business
on the peninsula. Founded by Joseph Harris in 1862, four generations of
the Harris family edited the paper which today is located at 235 North
Third Avenue.
An example of secondary use development and historical preservation is
also Ladder House, a restaurant located in the vacated Sturgeon Bay firehouse
at 38 South Third Avenue. Built in 1908, the building served as the fire
station until last year. Renovations have maintained many of the original
structural features of the fire station; artifacts include the firefighters’
gear, among other things.
Relocated to 36 South Third Avenue this past spring, the Sturgeon Bay
Visitor & Convention Bureau moved into what was the former city hall,
built circa 1903. “This building represents what is important to
us: ‘building’ on the past to bring us into the future,”
said Todd. “And the location is ideal, between the two bridges.”
Over the years, Third Avenue has hosted time-honored parades, from St.
Patrick’s Day to the Fourth of July. During World War II, Sturgeon
Bay Transit Company transported wartime workers down the avenue; Third
and Michigan Street served as a transit location. Fire trucks, tourists
traveling to Northern Door resorts, wagons filled with cherries, and ice-laden
trucks lumbered along the downtown thoroughfare.
Today, Third Avenue boasts restaurants, a variety of retail stores, a
performing arts theater, and sundry businesses. But above the storefronts
advertising the latest fashions, magazines, and homemade fudge, beautiful
architectural details are the legacy of a remarkable history.
STREET NAMES OF YESTERYEAR
Sturgeon Bay’s early street names reflected America’s history,
local topography, and tradition. Nearly every burgeoning frontier town
boasted a “Main Street.” Patriotism called for streets named
for presidents, while local history was honored by naming streets after
the community’s founding fathers. Streets were also named for
trees, churches, and the location of the courthouse or library. The
names were officially changed during World War II so wartime workers
could more easily navigate the city. Lost forever were the names “Graham,
Tong, Harris, Cedar, Water, St. John, Cottage, and Garland.”
